Hawaii surfing 70s

2018-07-26 看过

Aussies really got some balls haha.

"When the Australians, they started coming to the north shore, there was like a different mindset, emmm on their (laughing) approach. You know, I mean, our approach was, you go out there and sort of wait for the best wave. And you don't waste time on those waves. And then the whole little group of Aussies came over here and it was like tearing apart everything, catching everything, whatever it's moving. (Mocking, definitely mocking)

Australians are very pushy people.

It doesn't matter what sports it is, Aussies are like kick the shit out of other countries.

They are competitive people, almost paranoid. They compete in areas we don't even compete. (Laughing) "

The year 1975 was a turning point. Not just with the vision of what was gonna happen, like something was getting ready to launch. And then, all of a sudden, there it was!

Mark Richards aka MR, Aussie

Shaun Tomson, South Africa

Wayne the rabbit, Aussie: Once I found surfing, my life changed. I knew I could be one of the best. I knew I could be the world champion. I just knew that was something that could take me to the top. Growing up was pretty tough. I then became the breadwinner. We were actually in desperate poverty. (Tears are dropping) You know, I started stealing. (Wiping his tears) .......surfing was something I could lose myself in.

Mathew Tomson: deep inside the barrel, completely in tune with my inner self, nothing else matters. The hard wind and spit shooting passed me from behind, my hand dragging along the wall, the light shines ahead. My long hair carried by the wind. My feet are in perfect placement on the board.

As I lean forward I feel myself speeding up getting faster and faster as the barrel stars to close. I crunch down until my legs burn and I then pull out to the whole lineup cheering. My body tingles with joy and happiness. that was the day I became a man.

John John也出镜了哈哈 相当年轻 跟他老妈一起

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