Diet for a Small Planet Diet for a Small Planet 评价人数不足

虽然作者成功预言了工业化农业的后果,但没有扭转局势

食通社

不过作为批判工业化农业、强调饮食选择对环境影响的开山之作之一,这本书也让很多70年代的反战人士开始关注食物,为30年后新生的食物运动奠定了基础。

虽然乔布斯受此书影响成了素食主义者,但这并没有影响苹果手机在生产过程中制造污染和不社会不公。看来知行合一还是挺难的。。。

下面这段对话来自:https://fivebooks.com/interview/ruth-reichl-on-american-food/,很好地总结了这本书的价值和意义。

The third book on your list is Diet for a Small Planet. This is more about social action, changing the world by changing the way you eat, and the politics of food.

This book was a real game-changer for my generation. When I read that book, I had not thought about any of these things – the fact that we were feeding 20 pounds of useable protein to a steer, to get one pound of useable beef. It absolutely galvanised me and many people like me. It’s a book that was ahead of its time, t...

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不过作为批判工业化农业、强调饮食选择对环境影响的开山之作之一,这本书也让很多70年代的反战人士开始关注食物,为30年后新生的食物运动奠定了基础。

虽然乔布斯受此书影响成了素食主义者,但这并没有影响苹果手机在生产过程中制造污染和不社会不公。看来知行合一还是挺难的。。。

下面这段对话来自:https://fivebooks.com/interview/ruth-reichl-on-american-food/,很好地总结了这本书的价值和意义。

The third book on your list is Diet for a Small Planet. This is more about social action, changing the world by changing the way you eat, and the politics of food.

This book was a real game-changer for my generation. When I read that book, I had not thought about any of these things – the fact that we were feeding 20 pounds of useable protein to a steer, to get one pound of useable beef. It absolutely galvanised me and many people like me. It’s a book that was ahead of its time, the kind of thing people are doing now, and thinking about now. But when this book came out in the early 1970s, it was revolutionary. I feel this is a book that hasn’t gotten its due. It was very important for the Berkeley Food Movement – so much of it came out of Frances Moore Lappé, who brought the politics of food to the attention of the anti-war generation. I think it was, in many ways, responsible for much of what happened later. And it’s a cookbook.

Yes, a meatless cookbook, which she distinguishes from a vegetarian one.

Exactly, and it’s definitely not vegan. To me it’s really interesting to take stock and look at where we were – this was almost 40 years ago – and how much things have changed. People are much more aware now. Her recipes are very fat-heavy, very dependent on cheese and eggs. Probably if she were doing those recipes today, they would be vegan.

Why do you say that?

Because these days many of the young people who are food activists tend to be vegan. I don’t know this for a fact, but my instinct is that a modern version of the book would be vegan.

In terms of taking stock, I watched Food, Inc a few weeks ago. When I read Diet for a Small Planet, I thought, “Wow, she’s talking about pretty much the same thing.” The big agricultural companies, like Cargill, are still the bad guys. She said all this in the 70s and we’re still watching documentaries about it now. How much progress have we made?

In fact things have got worse. She was the canary in the mine. We didn’t pay enough attention. The industrialisation of food and the vertical integration of agriculture just galloped forward. She’s not even talking about things like confinement animal facilities. The difference is that the political food movement was a fringe movement in 1970 and now it’s very mainstream. Frances Moore Lappé was sounding a call to battle which was not picked up for three decades. So now you have people like Michael Pollan and Eric Schlosser saying, “Wait a minute! It’s time we really started taking a look at this!” And their timing was right. People were ready to hear it.

Her criticism of the industry is political, but she’s also saying that the American obsession with meat is plain unhealthy. She writes, “The typical American diet is a high-risk diet.” I also like her point that eating more vegetables and less meat liberated her from “from the stifling preoccupation with weight that plagues so many Americans”.

It’s remarkable. This book was written before the obesity crisis, before the diabetes crisis. The American government policy on what we supported and subsidised in agriculture was a social experiment on a whole generation of children. Now we’re paying the price for that. She pointed out we were going to have problems and we do. She says eat a plant-based diet, it’s better for you. Forty years later Michael Pollan writes Food Rules and says essentially the same thing.

I particularly like the chapter “Who asked for Fruit Loops?” Even my kids find that particular breakfast cereal too disgusting to eat.

Good for them! I have to admit I’ve never had a Fruit Loop. Are they really loathesome?

Just this yucky artificial taste and colouring. But I think the problem is that once you develop a taste for these kind of unhealthy things, then you crave more of them. My guess is that people suffering from obesity have grown up eating very processed foods like doughnuts, so that’s what they want to eat.

I don’t know. If you really taste a doughnut, it’s pretty disgusting. They taste of grease. I bought one a couple weeks ago – I hadn’t had one in a really long time. I thought the only way you can really eat this is if you’re not paying attention. The same goes for Coca-Cola. If you really taste it, if it’s not ice cold, I don’t think anyone could get it down. I think part of what happens is that if you start training yourself to actually taste food, you turn away from a lot of stuff.

Is there a recipe in the book you want to recommend?

A lot of the recipes are actually quite nice. There’s one called “Rice con queso” that I haven’t had in years, but I used to love it. Rice and beans and cheese and ricotta. It was pretty heavy – I would probably modify it now – but we used to make it all the time in the 1970s. I can taste it in my mind. Delicious.

So are you off dairy products or trying to cut back on them?

Oh God no! Are you kidding? I couldn’t live without butter. Butter is probably my single favourite food. No, not at all.

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