详细的着装介绍
书中主要讲了西装的着装, 涉及到西装的方方面面. 最后讲了一点正装的选择,燕尾服领结之类, 和商务休闲服装的注意事项(business casual).
这本书中讲到的着装法则就是平常不穿西装,也可以应用到每天的着装上. 书中第一章就就讲到了颜色,第二章是比例, 第三章是花色(pattern).虽然是以西装作为讲解的例子, 这些着装的本质是可以应用到所以的衣服的.书中最有价值的地方是提供了很多在你挑选西装的时候应该注意的事项, 衬衫领子的高度, 西装袖子的长度, 皮带的长度, 等等.
讲到着装,我的启蒙读物是GQ.当时是订阅的.GQ里最多的就是名牌的广告,经常看这些广告也慢慢认识到了什么颜色配什么颜色, 什么上衣配什么裤子.知道了简单就是最好的一些准则. GQ里很少有专门介绍西装的着装艺术的. 在订阅的两年里只有一期是这样. 我对那期印象深刻. 书中有个模特穿着西装, 然后有一根线从肩头拉出来说 - 肩宽应该怎么样才好, 一根线从领带拉出来说 - 领带的长度应该怎么样. 我记得里面最清楚的一句话是 "美国人的西装衬衫里可以踹一只兔子". 意思是说美国人的衬衫设计都比较宽大. 而欧洲的都比较合身. 可能在美国觉得这种slim design的衬衫有点sissy, guy的感觉吧.
我的第二次着装训练是在后来读书的时候, 学校推荐了一本书叫 - business attire的. 具体书名忘记了. 书中讲到了具体的怎么建立一个男人的衣柜. 首先把现在的衣服都拿出来, 把不合身的都扔掉. 然后开始建立新的衣柜. 从西装,衬衫,领带到休闲的搭配. nothing worng with white shirt.
所有的之前的经验都是零星的和自我感知的. 现在这本书却是系统的介绍了男士着装的准则. 虽然社会在变化, 但是男人西装的美感定义从上世纪30年代到现在都没有改变过. 你可以有创新但是这些创新是在之前的经验美感的基础上的创新. 就像郭德刚说的一样 - 再好的厨师也是从之前的基础变化来的, 你把菜承在痰盂里上桌, 肯定没有人吃的.
我几下了一些笔记..如下.
Shoulder: since the jacket’s shoulders frame the head, if they are too narrow, the head will appear larger than actual size; if cut too wide, the head will appear disproportionately small.
Jacket length: jacket length should divide in half the distance from the collar’s seam to the floor. Jacket’s bottom should line up with thumb knuckle. Jacket’s sleeve should taper down to the wrist bone.
The dress shirt: think of the face as a picture and the collar as its frame. A small picture requires a like-scaled frame, just as a smaller man with delicate features requires a collar of restrained dimensions.
The necktie: the necktie’s correct width has always been determined by the jacket’s lapel. The secret of tie aesthetics lies in compressing the knot so that it can dovetail high up into the inverted “V” of the collar’s converging sides.
Into the fitting room: the jacket collar at the back should always be at such a height that at least half an inch of shirt collar shows above it. No less than a half-inch or shirt cuff should show below the jacket cuff.
Trousers: should be worn on the waist, not below. The trouser crease should intersect the middle of the knee and bisect the middle of the shoe. Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight break on top of shoe. Cuffless bottloms should slant toward the heel.
Patterns: when combining two patterns of the same design, the size of each should be as different from the others as possible. Otherwise the similarity will produce an optical illusion of movement or vibration.
Mixing 2 different patterns: two similar patterns necessitate varying sizes to avoid opposition. However, coordinating two different patterns, such as a striped suit and a check dress shirt, necessitates keeping them close in size. Two small patterns create discord. A small pattern needs to be relieves by a large one. Correct balance, for example, - large check, small check, large stripe.
Suit: side pocket line up with the bottom button on the coat’s front.
Shirt: if the sleeve length and cuff fit correctly, the wearer should be able to extend his arm in any direction without the cuff pulling away from the wrist.
Necktie: striped neckties chisel away breadth and softness from the face.
Belt: a belt’s end should finish between the trouser’s first and second loop.
Business casual: A good rule of thumb when harmonizing 3 different separates is to keep 2 pieces in the same color family. If you want to accelerate the fashion tempo, keeping all 3 pieces in the same color family picks up the space.
Business casual dress:
1. business attire should be cleanliness. Clients prefer their professionals looking well groomed. Casual dressing is no excuse for looking sloppy and unwashed.
2. when in doubt as to the correct attire for a specific business meeting, opt for a suit.
3. if unsure about an occasion’s level of formality, overdressing is the safer bet
4. dress in line with your superiors and never more casually than your subordinates. Be careful not to dress in such a relaxed manner that you no longer look like someone who can become an authority figure
5. whatever clothes you choose to wear to work, make sure they have the same characteristics that you look for in a fine suit – good materials, fine workmanship, and excellent fit. Buy the best quality you can offered. Like one’s education, clothing is an investment in your future.
这本书中讲到的着装法则就是平常不穿西装,也可以应用到每天的着装上. 书中第一章就就讲到了颜色,第二章是比例, 第三章是花色(pattern).虽然是以西装作为讲解的例子, 这些着装的本质是可以应用到所以的衣服的.书中最有价值的地方是提供了很多在你挑选西装的时候应该注意的事项, 衬衫领子的高度, 西装袖子的长度, 皮带的长度, 等等.
讲到着装,我的启蒙读物是GQ.当时是订阅的.GQ里最多的就是名牌的广告,经常看这些广告也慢慢认识到了什么颜色配什么颜色, 什么上衣配什么裤子.知道了简单就是最好的一些准则. GQ里很少有专门介绍西装的着装艺术的. 在订阅的两年里只有一期是这样. 我对那期印象深刻. 书中有个模特穿着西装, 然后有一根线从肩头拉出来说 - 肩宽应该怎么样才好, 一根线从领带拉出来说 - 领带的长度应该怎么样. 我记得里面最清楚的一句话是 "美国人的西装衬衫里可以踹一只兔子". 意思是说美国人的衬衫设计都比较宽大. 而欧洲的都比较合身. 可能在美国觉得这种slim design的衬衫有点sissy, guy的感觉吧.
我的第二次着装训练是在后来读书的时候, 学校推荐了一本书叫 - business attire的. 具体书名忘记了. 书中讲到了具体的怎么建立一个男人的衣柜. 首先把现在的衣服都拿出来, 把不合身的都扔掉. 然后开始建立新的衣柜. 从西装,衬衫,领带到休闲的搭配. nothing worng with white shirt.
所有的之前的经验都是零星的和自我感知的. 现在这本书却是系统的介绍了男士着装的准则. 虽然社会在变化, 但是男人西装的美感定义从上世纪30年代到现在都没有改变过. 你可以有创新但是这些创新是在之前的经验美感的基础上的创新. 就像郭德刚说的一样 - 再好的厨师也是从之前的基础变化来的, 你把菜承在痰盂里上桌, 肯定没有人吃的.
我几下了一些笔记..如下.
Shoulder: since the jacket’s shoulders frame the head, if they are too narrow, the head will appear larger than actual size; if cut too wide, the head will appear disproportionately small.
Jacket length: jacket length should divide in half the distance from the collar’s seam to the floor. Jacket’s bottom should line up with thumb knuckle. Jacket’s sleeve should taper down to the wrist bone.
The dress shirt: think of the face as a picture and the collar as its frame. A small picture requires a like-scaled frame, just as a smaller man with delicate features requires a collar of restrained dimensions.
The necktie: the necktie’s correct width has always been determined by the jacket’s lapel. The secret of tie aesthetics lies in compressing the knot so that it can dovetail high up into the inverted “V” of the collar’s converging sides.
Into the fitting room: the jacket collar at the back should always be at such a height that at least half an inch of shirt collar shows above it. No less than a half-inch or shirt cuff should show below the jacket cuff.
Trousers: should be worn on the waist, not below. The trouser crease should intersect the middle of the knee and bisect the middle of the shoe. Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight break on top of shoe. Cuffless bottloms should slant toward the heel.
Patterns: when combining two patterns of the same design, the size of each should be as different from the others as possible. Otherwise the similarity will produce an optical illusion of movement or vibration.
Mixing 2 different patterns: two similar patterns necessitate varying sizes to avoid opposition. However, coordinating two different patterns, such as a striped suit and a check dress shirt, necessitates keeping them close in size. Two small patterns create discord. A small pattern needs to be relieves by a large one. Correct balance, for example, - large check, small check, large stripe.
Suit: side pocket line up with the bottom button on the coat’s front.
Shirt: if the sleeve length and cuff fit correctly, the wearer should be able to extend his arm in any direction without the cuff pulling away from the wrist.
Necktie: striped neckties chisel away breadth and softness from the face.
Belt: a belt’s end should finish between the trouser’s first and second loop.
Business casual: A good rule of thumb when harmonizing 3 different separates is to keep 2 pieces in the same color family. If you want to accelerate the fashion tempo, keeping all 3 pieces in the same color family picks up the space.
Business casual dress:
1. business attire should be cleanliness. Clients prefer their professionals looking well groomed. Casual dressing is no excuse for looking sloppy and unwashed.
2. when in doubt as to the correct attire for a specific business meeting, opt for a suit.
3. if unsure about an occasion’s level of formality, overdressing is the safer bet
4. dress in line with your superiors and never more casually than your subordinates. Be careful not to dress in such a relaxed manner that you no longer look like someone who can become an authority figure
5. whatever clothes you choose to wear to work, make sure they have the same characteristics that you look for in a fine suit – good materials, fine workmanship, and excellent fit. Buy the best quality you can offered. Like one’s education, clothing is an investment in your future.
有关键情节透露
- 作者: Alan Flusser
- 出版: HarperCollins
- 定价: USD 49.99
- 装帧: Hardcover
- 页数: 320
- 时间: 2002-10-1