鱼翅与花椒 8.3分
读书笔记 第十一章 香奈儿与鸡爪
闻夕felicity

香港能起到这种作用,是因为这里的每个人都和这座城市一样,位于交界之处。我香港的朋友早就习惯了每天在不同文化之间游刃有余。我们都能东西转化、来去自如,饮食习惯也是随遇而安。和他们聊天不用多解释什么,这实在让我轻松自在了许多。那时香港的文化多样性与国际化是中国大多数地方所不及的,就连出租车司机也能粤普英三语混杂着跟你聊上一段。

It works like this because everybody there is on the brink, like the place itself. My Hong Kong friends know what it’s like to be juggling cultures on a daily basis. We can all swing either way, East or West, and we eat ambidextrously. In conversation, there is much that doesn’t need to be explained, which is a huge relief. And Hong Kong is multicultural and international in a way that China still isn’t. Even the taxi drivers speak a mix of Cantonese, Mandarin and English.

==========

香港人的早餐多种多样,可以毫无压力和偏见地随意选择牛角面包加意式咖啡,或者蒸鸡爪配乌龙茶。他们也能出去吃吃“酱油西餐”(5),或者逛逛同时卖鲍鱼干与西班牙甜橘酱的熟食店。所有人都习惯了炸虾点心蘸上沙拉酱、豆皮卷佐以伍斯特酱。游客可能会深感古怪不适,但香港让这一切都顺理成章。

Hong Kong people will choose, in an evenhanded way, whether to have croissants and Italian coffee or steamed chickens’ feet with oolong tea for breakfast. They might go out for a bit of ‘soy sauce Western food’, or shop in a delicatessen that sells both dried abalone and Spanish membrillo. Everybody dips their deep-fried prawn dim sum in salad cream; their beancurd rolls in Worcestershire sauce. To visiting tourists this seems like a bastardisation; in Hong Kong, it makes perfect sense.

==========

这类茶楼最早出现在香港是十九世纪四十年代,但直到一八九七年英国当局取消了中国人的宵禁之后才兴旺起来。从二十世纪二十年代一直到四十年代,茶楼在香港遍地开花,在战后经济繁荣的背景下被赋予了重要的社交功能。那时候的香港,常有一大家子人挤在小小的住家里,共用厨房设施有限的公寓,有的甚至根本没有厨房。茶楼又便宜又方便,家宴、待客、谈生意都可以。有的茶楼因为某些行业的人常去而著名,比如襟江酒楼就总有很多手表与宝石商人光顾;还有的是棋类游戏或音乐表演聚集地。去茶楼变成香港生活的重中之重,熟人见面问候都会来一句“饮咗茶未吖”而不是比较传统的“食咗未”

The first such teahouses opened in Hong Kong in the 1840s, but they began to flourish only after 1897, when the British authorities abolished their night-time curfew for Chinese people. From the 1920s until the 1940s, they sprang up all over the territory, and they acquired a vital social function in the post-war economic boom. Whole families were then living in cramped accommodation, sharing apartments with limited cooking facilities, or even no kitchen at all. Teahouses were cheap and convenient, as much for family meals as entertaining guests or discussing business. Some became known for particular trades, like the Kam Kong restaurant, frequented by dealers of watches and gemstones; others for their board games or musical entertainments. Visiting a teahouse became so central to Hong Kong life that people began to greet one another by asking, ‘Have you had tea yet?’ instead of the more traditional, ‘Have you eaten?’

==========

在莲香楼吃完早餐,我走出门,在中环街市闲逛。走进一个市场,有位老太太正在剥青橘的皮,空气里芳香四溢。附近有家小小的饼店,新鲜出炉的蛋挞厚重的香味也飘了出来。市场摊位上挂着腌肉香肠,屠夫们在木墩菜板上手起刀落。每家店门口都挂着红灯笼、供着保护神,一切都高效而有条不紊地运转着,让你觉得数百万人蜗居在中国南海这个小小的岛上还真不错。在这些世俗平民的街巷,远离高级设计师店铺与豪华酒店,你能感受到红尘滚滚与摩肩接踵的喧嚣,听到一个古老得多的中国那遥远的绝响赋予这个城市持久的吸引力。

After my breakfast in Lin Heung, I wandered out into the streets of Central. In a market, an old woman was stripping the green peel from tangerines, releasing their sharp, citrus fragrance into the air. Nearby, the sweet, heavy scent of freshly baked custard tarts drifted out from a small bakery. Cured meats and sausages hung over market stalls; butchers worked with cleavers on wooden blocks. Behind every shopfront, red lamps glowed before shrines to protective deities. Hong Kong Island may have one of the world’s most hypermodern skylines, and an infrastructure so efficient it makes you think cramming over a million people on to a tiny piece of land in the South China Sea is a great idea, but at street level, away from the designer shops and the grand hotels, you can still find the grit, the intense physical sensations, and the echoes of a much older China that give the city-territory its enduring appeal.

==========

香港是美食之都,无论去哪儿都能看到大家吸溜吸溜地吃面、大口吞着饺子、在某个小摊前拿起一串烤麻雀。耳朵里充斥的是油炸的“滋滋”声,鼻息里全是四面八方美妙的香味。要是在香港跟一群中国朋友一起,你挑个关于食物的话头,可得注意了,大家就会滔滔不绝地回忆自己吃过什么、有哪些烹饪小技巧,还如数家珍地推荐火爆餐馆。这种对于吃的热情非常纯粹,不讲究室内装潢,不论去的地方是否高级,人们的势利之心消失得无影无踪。他们知道,香港最好的牛肉面很可能存在于某个简陋的大排档,美味惊人的穆斯林点心也许只能在九龙的某个棚屋里才找得到。在某条后街狭窄简陋的小店里,不难看到衣着光鲜的富人围坐破破烂烂的餐桌,打开价格不菲的红酒。在湾仔市集走一走,肯定能看到有司机守在奔驰之类的豪车里,不熄火,等着富家太太们买特别水灵的蔬菜和海鲜回去让家里的泰国或菲律宾用人做饭。

Hong Kong is a city obsessed with eating. Everywhere you go, there are people slurping noodles, devouring dumplings, picking up a skewer of deep-fried sparrows at a street stall. Sounds of frying and delicious smells emanate from all around. And if you start a conversation about food among Hong Kong Chinese friends, be warned that you will unleash a runaway train of food reminiscences, cooking tips, and hot restaurant recommendations. And because the object of all this passion really is eating, rather than glamorous décor or being seen in the right places, people aren’t snobbish at all. They know that you will very likely find the best beef noodles in Hong Kong at a shabby dai pai dong, or a sensational Muslim pastry in a shack in Kowloon. It’s not uncommon to find rich men cracking open seriously expensive bottles of wine in some cramped backstreet café with chipped formica tables. And if you wander through the Wanchai wet market, you can be sure to see chauffeur-driven Mercedes parked nearby, their motors running as the tai tais (the Hong Kong equivalent of Ladies Who Lunch) buy impeccably fresh vegetables and seafood for their Thai or Filipina housekeepers to cook.

0
《鱼翅与花椒》的全部笔记 136篇
豆瓣
免费下载 iOS / Android 版客户端