鱼翅与花椒 8.4分
读书笔记 第二章 担担面!
闻夕felicity

成都的街头是出了名的生机勃勃和丰富多彩。清朝末年,二十世纪初期,傅崇矩写了本成都导游手册(2),里面描述了多种多样的货郎,包括流动理发师、流动修脚师、送水的、卖花的、修伞修扇子的、卖鸡毛掸子的、磨刀的和卖小吃的。古老的城市,迷宫般交织的街道,木结构的房子,竹子编织的墙上糊着泥巴和稻草再粉刷成白色。壮丽庄严的木门前,石狮子威风凛凛地镇守在底座上。几乎每条街都有个茶馆儿,小二提着一壶壶开水在桌椅间穿梭,往飘散着茉莉香味的盖碗里续水。喧嚷的市场与热闹的街道上,最受欢迎的声音就是那些卖小吃的,美味应声而来。 十九世纪末和二十世纪初应该是成都小吃的黄金岁月。货郎们的生死存亡全看小吃的手艺,所以各家都有被别人妒忌猜测却秘而不宣的独门秘方。如此激烈的竞争氛围中,货郎们争先恐后地开发属于自己的新配方,有些到现在还以创始人命名。其中一个叫钟燮森的,发明了极为美味的“钟水饺”:味道清淡的猪肉馅儿包成新月状的饺子,加点甜辣味的酱油和红油,最后来点蒜蓉。还有个赖源鑫,给后人留下了他温香软玉一般的“赖汤圆”:炒过的黑芝麻磨成粉,加上猪油和白糖,包在糯米皮里。一对夫妻,挑着厨具漫步在大街小巷,伉俪情深传为佳话;他们专门卖一种凉菜:白卤牛杂切片,拌上芹菜、花生米、芝麻,加点卤水、红油和花椒面儿,就成了现在著名的“夫妻肺片”。货郎要是做得比较成功,一般会开个餐馆,通常都用自己最著名的那种小吃命名。

The noodle sellers weren’t the only traders on the move; they were part of a thriving and colourful street life for which Chengdu was renowned. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, in the early twentieth century, a guide to the city by Fu Chongju included descriptions and illustrations of some of its many street traders, including itinerant barbers and pedicurists, water-carriers and flower-sellers, menders of parasols and fans, vendors of chicken-feather dusters, knife sharpeners, and snack makers. The old city was a maze of alleys lined with timber-framed houses, their walls made of panels of woven bamboo that were packed with mud and straw, then whitewashed. Stone lions stood on pedestals at either side of imposing wooden gateways. There was a teahouse on almost every street, where waiters with kettles of boiling water scurried around, refilling china bowls of jasmine-scented tea. And amidst the cacophony of the markets and the bustling streets, no sound was more welcome than the cry of a snack-seller, advertising the arrival of some delicious xiao chi, or ‘small eat’. The late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries are remembered as the heyday of Chengdu snacks. Street vendors lived or died by the quality of their cooking, so the secrets of their methods were jealousy guarded. In an atmosphere of fevered competition, individual traders devised new recipes, some of which still bear their names. One man, Zhong Xiesen, invented the divine ‘Zhong boiled dumpling’ (zhong shui jiao), a tender pork-filled crescent bathed in spiced, sweetened soy sauce and chilli oil, and finished off with a smattering of garlic paste. Another, Lai Yuanxin, left to posterity his squidgy glutinous rice balls (lai tang yuan), stuffed with a paste of toasted black sesame seeds and sugar. A married couple who roamed the streets with their cooking equipment had a relationship so famously harmonious that their speciality – slices of beef offal tossed with celery and roasted nuts in a fiery dressing of spiced broth, chilli oil and Sichuan pepper – is still known as ‘Man-and-wife lung slices’ (fu qi fei pian). The more successful traders often went on to open their own restaurants, usually named after their most celebrated snack.

0
《鱼翅与花椒》的全部笔记 40篇
豆瓣
免费下载 iOS / Android 版客户端